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Calanques

jaro 2001

V polovině března se mi zdála být zima už dost dlouhá a tak jsem se rozhodla, že si ji trochu zkrátím výletem s kamarády do Calanques. Volba oblasti se ukázala být jako velmi dobrá, neboť zatímco vytrvalý déšť způsoboval záplavy v severní Francii, u Marseille bylo nádherně teplo a slunečno. Jeden den dokonce teplota vystoupila ke 28 stupňům celsia a tak jsme toho využili a vyměnili lezení na pár hodin za osvěžující plavání v průzračných vodách Středozemního moře.


Zájezd jsme pojali odpočinkově a místo dobývání těžkých cest jsme se věnovali spíše poznávání oblasti a okolních krás marseillského pobřeží. A tak vám, kteří nepátráte po pokořených číslicích francouzské klasifikace, nabízím popis Calanques, které jistě stojí za to navštívit.

[přeloženo z francouzských webů a doplněno o osobní zkušenosti]

Les Calanques ( Kalánky ) v sedmdesátých letech byly významnou lezeckou oblastí. Světoví lezci jako Gaston Rebuffat či George Livanos zde trénovali v zimě před významnými výstupy v Alpách. Nyní již Calanques mají zřejmě velkou slávu za sebou. Ve Francii jsou objevovány stále nové a nové skalní oblasti, v jejichž stínu věhlas Calanques pomalu zaniká.


Masiv Calanques se nalézá na malém kousku marseillského pobřeží uchráněným před urbanistickou zástavbou. Je tvořen  pohořím s nejvyšší horou (Mont Puget) 584 m klesající strmě ke Středozemnímu moři a zářící bílými roztroušenými stěnami, které vytváří rozeklané zákruty s jeskyněmi a přírodními plážemi.To vše jen pár kilometrů od rušného města Marseille.

Calanques  se řadí svou 15 km délkou a 5 km šířkou k nejmohutnějším lezeckým terénům Francie. Celý masiv nabízí více než 100 km cest různých obtížností. Klima je také pozoruhodné. Prší zde vůbec nejméně z celé Francie (jen 50 dešťových dní v roce) a deštivo je více na podzim. Na zdejším odlišném klimatu se podílí zejména Mistral, nepravidelný severní vítr, který v zimě může být nejen silný ale i studený. V létě s sebou přináší horko, které odradí i ty největší teplomily.

Tipy:

Bivakování je zakázáno dokonce i bez stanu, ale v zimních měsících se zdá být tolerováno. Po celou dobu jsme stavěli stany a nesetkali jsme se s problémy.

Pro většinu francouzských oblastí platí nenechávat naprosto žádné věci v autě. I přesto, že jsme žádné negativní skutečnosti nezaznamenali, raději případné nenechavce nepokoušejte a berte si cennosti s sebou. Na francouzských serverech dokonce nabádají k užívání výhradně hlídaných parkovišť případně k zaparkování auta ve městě a užití městské hromadné dopravy k cestě do oblasti.

Vezměte si dostatek vody. Je zapotřebí dovést vodu již z města! Voda ve studnách malých pobřežních vesniček (např. v Morgiou) vám svou mírně slanou chutí jasně připomína přítomnost moře.


Popis a charakteristika jednotlivých sektorů:

Některé ze stěn se nacházejí přímo nad mořem.Často mají bizarní tvary a uchovaný divoký ráz. Je zde mnoho odlišných sektorů, některé z nich připomínají spíše lehký horský lezecký terén a nabízí i více délkové cesty a nezřídka i s obtížným přístupem a relativně starým a nepříliš důvěryhodným zajištěním.

Cassis je nejkrásnější místo Kalánek. To se samozřejmě odráží i v počtu turistů, kteří jej každoročně navštíví.

Sormiou nabízí dobře odjištěné lezeni přímo nad morem.

Grande Candelle, díky své horší dostupnosti je často bez lezců a také nabízí pěkné cesty. Není však (až na některé sektory) nejpříhodnější cílem pro sportovní lezení. Naproti tomu ale nabízí nádherné klima a dobrodružné lezení v divoké přírodě.




"A" počet cest pod 20.
"B" počet cest mezi 20 a 40.
"C" počet cest nad 40.

Typ cest:
"přev" : převislé -
"kol" : kolmé a položené.
"mp" : více délkové < 4 délky
"MP" : více délkové < 4 délky
"adv" : divočinka

SektorPodsektorSměrtypObtížnostCharakteristika
MorgiouAbri côtierAJZkolmice3 až 7a+Skutečně příjemný sektor v blízkosti port de Morgiou
LuminyAiguille SugitonBJZkolmice/mp4b až 7aNěkolik nádherných linií a stěna s krásným vzhledem na moře
LuminyAiguille SugitonAJVkolmice/mp3 až 7aPřevážně položené - brzy ve stínu
SormiouApanaouAJZkolmice3 až 5cMalý sektor k dosažení od- Tiragne  asi 5min
GoudesAlpinodromeAVkolmice/převislá5c až 7bSektor se staršími cestami a možnostmi traverzů
SormiouArche perdueASZkolmice4 až 6cPříjemný přístup, cesty brzy ve stínu
MorgiouBaumettesAJZkolmice4 až 7a+Lehká oblast s cestami od  5b-5c
GoudesBonne mereAJZmp5a až 7a+Několik zajímavých dlouhých cest
SormiouLa bougieBJkolmice/mp5b až 7cVelká stěna s výhledem na moře ne příliš frekventovaný sektor
MorgiouCabanonsBVkolmice/převislá5b až 8a+Stěna ve stínu spíše pro silné lezce
MorgiouCancéouAZkolmice/MP5 až 6bSkvělé nezapomenutelné cesty
LuminyCandelleAJkolmice/MP/adv4 až 7b+Několik zajímavých cest chráněných před mistralem
GardioleCastelvieilAJZkolmice/MP/adv5 až 6cDivoký a dobrodružný sektor
LuminyCathédraleAJkolmice6a až 8aVelkolepé linie 40m , kde je dobře být v dobré mentální kondici
SormiouCol de SormiouAS a Jkolmice3 až 5cKrátký přístup 10 sec
SormiouColline de LunCZ a Jkolmice/převislá4 až 7c+Přírodně divoké s množstvím zajímavých cest částečně chráněných před mistralem
LuminyConcaveAZkolmice/převislá/MP/adv4 až 7b+Nádherné linie na kameny, mýtické cesty
SormiouConglueAJZkolmice/mp4 až 5cSektor nabízející více délkové cesty (2délky)
MorgiouCret St MichelBZ a JZkolmice/MP4 až 7cPěkné délky chráněné před Mistrálem
GardioleDevensonAJkolmice/MP/adv5 až 6bMagické místo pro amatéry s několika atletickými cestami
SormiouDiedre GuemAJVkolmice/mp3 až 4Stěny ideální pro soft-movery
GardioleEissadonAJZkolmice/MP4 až 6bSuper rozvržené místo daleko od civilizace
GardioleEissadonAJkolmice/MP/adv4 až 6aPříjemný lehčí sektor
GardioleEn VauCvšechnokolmice/MP/mp3 až 7bMagické místo občas olezené chyty
GoudesFace sudBJkolmice/mp4 až 6cNěkolik stěn směrujících k moři chráněných před Mistrálem
GoudesEscalier géantBJVE a JZkolmice4 až 7a+Sympatické skály lehké cesty jsou ojeté
MarseilleveyreFontaine d'ivoireBSVkolmice/převislá6b až 7c+Ne příliš hezké skály přesto několik pěkných cest
GoudesGrotte de l'ermiteAJZpřevislá6a+ až 8b+Opravdu hezké cesty vyhrazené převážně silným lezcům
GoudesGrotte de l'ermiteASZkolmice/mp4c až 8a+Divoké skaly s nevelkým počtem cest
LuminyGrotte de l'oursBJVkolmice/převislá6a až 8cOsm céčka a mnohé jiné pěkné cesty
SormiouIletteAJVkolmice/převislá5b až 7bMalý sektor v borovicovém lesíku kousek od moře
GoudesLapinodromeAJVkolmice4 až 6bMalý sektor ne příliš frekventovaný
SormiouLeche cuAJVkolmice/převislá6c až 8aNový sektor ne ještě všechny cesty jsou očištěny
SormiouLou spigaouAVkolmice4 až 6b+Malý sektor bez ochrany stínu
SormiouLui d'AiAJVkolmice/mp4 až 7a+Super pár metrů od moře, chráněné před větrem
MarseilleveyreMassiliaBSZkolmice4 až 6bPěkné lehké cesty výhled na Marseille
MarseilleveyreMetalika et MitreAZkolmice5c+ až 7bNení známo
SormiouMomieBVkolmice/MP5a až 7bStín velkou část dne  pár zajímavých linií
LuminyOasisAJZpřevislá6b až 8a+Pár nových těžkých cest
OuleOuleAJkolmice/MP/adv5c až 6cPěkné cesty jsou ojeté
MarseilleveyreParagonAZ a SZkolmice4 až 7bPár zajímavých cest
MarseilleveyrePalais d'étéASZkolmice/převislá6b až 7c+Super kolmé i převislé
GoudesParoi jauneAJZkolmice6a+ až 7cVertikální stěny a cesty délky až 35 m
LuminyParoi des toitsCJZkolmice/převislá5c až 8bSkvělé cesty několik nových
MarseilleveyrePastréCSZkolmice4 až 7aSkaly s panoramatickým výhledem na městečko
LuminyPierres tombéesBJkolmice/mp5b až 7cKrásné okolí chráněné před větrem v blízkosti moře
SormiouPinedeAZkolmice4 až 6cMalý sektor
GardiolePort MiouAJZkolmice5b až 7aMalý sektor bez ochrany před Sluncem
MorgiouRadeauAJkolmice5a až 6c+Mikro sektor s pěkným prostředím
MarseilleveyreRagga wallAZkolmice5c až 7a+Pár krásných cest v této malé oblasti část dne je ve stínu
MorgiouFalaise du renardAVkolmice/mp5a až 6cViditelný markantní zářez s 3 zajímavými cestami
MarseilleveyreRoy d'espagneCZkolmice3 až 8aSkála s mnoha cestami a blízkostí osídlení
SormiouRumpe cuouAJZkolmice/mp3 až 6aPříjemné cesty pro start ve velkých stěnách
LuminyJVcle candelleCJJZvšechno4 až 7c+Dlouhé cesty zleva chráněné před Mistrálem
JVrmiouTete meletteAJkolmice/mp5c až 6bMalý sektor s 2-3 délkovými cestami a nějaké bouldery na tření
MarseilleveyreTete mounineAJVkolmice/MP/adv5b až 6bNěkolik cest chráněno stromy - chráněno před větrem
SormiouTiragneCJZ a Jkolmice/mp4 až 7b+Krásná oblast mnoho cest
MorgiouTriperieBZkolmice/převislá/mp6a až 8bPár krásných cest v oblasti- přístup slaněním, morálová
LuminyVirageBJkolmice/převislá5c+ až 8aKolmé i převislé stěny možnost dlouhých traversů



Jana Lukášová   [úpravy] 09:34 06.04.2001Tisk 

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Komentáře

Nový komentář 

 * * * * *
Takhle by, podle mne, měl vypadat report. Dávám 5 hvězdiček.
Zapsal: Azbest, 12:40:52 06.04.2001
 
Reportik je fakt vybornej, ale jen by mne zajimalo, kolik takova cesta do Calanques stoji. Jo Francie je prece jen Francie,takze se to asi kapku prodrazi ne? Dikes za odpoved jinak taky davam pet hvezdicek.
Zapsal: Zelenac, 10:36:29 12.04.2001
 Cena
cena dost zavisi na tom jak ziznive je auto a kolik clenu posadky se sklada na benzin, ale v zasade pri naplneni auta by se cena za jednoho nemela presplhat pres dav tisice a to se vsemi dalnicnimi poplatky.
Zapsal: JirkaS, 13:19:33 29.06.2001
 Ohen
Predm se omlouvam za chybejici hackocarky. Kalanky jsou bezva a nadherny to se musi nechat. V lete ovsem maji jednu velkou nevyhodu a to hrozici pozary kvuli kterym se velka cast uzemi uzavira popripade se pristup omezuje, coz znamena az moc velke problemy pro lezce, co zde chteji travit delsi dobu.
Zapsal: Michal, 13:36:35 28.10.2002
 *****
Dobra prace Jano
Zapsal: Ondra, 15:46:02 28.10.2002
 v létě ne
Kalánky jsou parádní, v létě ale mají dvě výrazné nevýhody-lézt se dá jen na návětrné straně, jinak na stěnách schovaných před vánky (i vichry-slavný MISTRÁL) z moře se lézt kvůli vedru nedá, no, a pro mě největší nepříjemnost-děsné davy turistů a to i mimo sezónu v září či červnu. Uvítal bych popis fotek, zvláště stěna na té poslední, tu neznám, v save as.. se mi objevilo PAROITS, to je v které části?
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