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Grand Capucin

Bonattiho cesta

Myšlenka pokusit se vylézt Bonattiho cestu na Grand Capucina vznikla před třemi lety. Stáli jsme tehdy pod Capucinem a plni zážitků ze Švýcarské cesty jsme uvažovali, o kolik může být Bonatti těžší a jestli na něho budeme někdy mít. Linie krásná, ale budí respekt. Ten rok jsme odjížděli ze Chamonix s představou, jak krásné by bylo cestu někdy vylézt, ale nebyli jsme si vůbec jisti, zda se toho někdy odvážíme.


Letos jsme se s Ferdou domluvili, že pokud se nám podaří vylézt Cassinovu cestu v severní stěně Cimy Ovest, pokusíme se v případě dobré předpovědi i o Bonattiho. V červenci jsme Cassinovu cestu opravdu vylezli (hluboce před Cassinem smekám) a já doufal, že dalším psychologickým sondám do našich duší zabrání počasí. V polovině srpna mi ale Ferda zavolal něco v tom smyslu, že předpověď počasí pro Chamonix je na dalších pět dní dobrá, že naše výkonnost už lepší nebude, že tudíž není na co čekat a že jedeme.

Potom už vše probíhalo standartně. Cesta do Chamonix, lanovkou na Midi, 3 hodiny po ledovci pod Capucina, den poflakování se u stanu (aklimatizace), dohadování se nad průvodcem kudy cesta přesně vede a hlavně hledání zdůvodnění, proč to vlastně chceme podniknout.


Vstávání ve čtyři hodiny netěší nikoho, zvláště když venku mrzne, ale obloha byla jasná, vše jsme prodiskutovali již dříve, tak vyrážíme. Okrajová trhlina, která nás před třemi lety strašila, byla teď bez problémů a my pokračujeme asi 100m kuloárem o sklonu 45  k vlastnímu nástupu, kde necháváme plastiky, mačky a cepíny. Právě vychází slunce.

Cesta začíná asi 150m traverzem, kde jak píše průvodce, se mírně stoupá systémem křížících se teras až k místu přerušení. Potom stěnkou 10m vzhůru (za 5), dále dolů na pás  u malé jeskyně a pásem až ke třetímu zářezu. To co se nám při pohledu zdola zdálo jednoznačné, už teď takové není. Nejsme si moc jisti, který zářez je vlastně ten třetí. První délka měla být za 5+, ale jako už tolikrát v horách kroutím hlavou , proklínám tvůrce průvodce a jen doufám, že frendy se v případě nouze zachovají jak mají, protože skoby tu zatím nejsou. Štand je tam, kde jsme ho očekávali, uklidňujeme se a můžeme pokračovat.


Čeká nás převážně technické lezení, systémem většinou převislých spár a zářezů, kde některé skoby nebudí důvěru a občas je třeba hákovat po vlastních frendech a vklíněncích. Po čtyřech hodinách lezení máme za sebou pět délek (když nepočítám traverzování) a jsme v prvním Bonattiho bivaku. Je to malá polička, kde se dá dobře stát, ale obtížně sedět. Po dvou dalších délkách se dostáváme nad obrovský převis, který naštěstí vyšel na Ferdu, a ve kterém po nás zůstal ve stropě frend. Průvodce nás upozorňuje, že nemáme pokračovat vzhůru zářezem, ale traverzovat malou vodorovnou spárkou doprava. Tohle místo si oba vybavujeme z Bonattiho knihy. V traverzu je vyfocen lezec v žebříčkách a celé to vypadá velmi exponovaně a velkolepě. Rozdíl mezi knihou a realitou je v tom, že na obrázku je spousta skob a v reálu jediná. Nezbývá než začít skobovat. Skoby máme, to ano, ale od každé velikosti dva tři kusy. A spárka zůstává pořád stejná. Naštěstí není moc dlouhá. Na jejím konci jsem si vydechl, ale bylo to předčasné. Cesta sice pokračuje jedním ze snadnějších míst, spárokomínem za 5, ale balzám na nervy to není.Vše je zalito silnou vrstvou ledu a v lezečkách v tom bruslím poměrně dlouho. Otloukám kladivem led a velmi opatrně se strachem v očích vzlínám. Na štand jsem dolezl mokrý, zmrzlý a vystrašený. Další délka vyšla na Ferdu. Byla bez ledu, ale padala do ní vodní tříšť ze sněhu tajícího někde nahoře. Když připočtu obtížnost lezení, nic příjemného. Na štandu střídáme a oblékáme bundy, protože sluníčko už do západní stěny nesvítí. Vše začíná pomalu tuhnout. Pokračujeme a dostáváme se do druhého Bonattiho bivaku. Je to velká, prostorná police, plná sněhu, kde na člověka dýchá chlad. Nehostinné místo. Přelézáme Wandl, čekají nás závěrečné délky. Expozice je celou dobu úchvatná a teď ještě začíná gradovat. Zvolna, co naše schopnosti dovolí, se suneme vzhůru. Mrzí nás, že počítat opravdu neumíme. Z druhého Bonattiho bivaku jsme vylezli dvě délky a podle průvodce nám zbývá už jen jedna a měli bychom mít západní stěnu za sebou. Ale není to tak. Poté, co se s pomocí čoku překulím přes další převis, je jasné, že končit ještě nebudeme. Zase vyklopená spára, ze které koukají oka čoků, frendů, staré klíny a skoby. Závěr spáry prověřil mou, už tak nalomenou psychickou otužilost. Konečně štand pod dalším převisem. Za chvilku je tu i Ferda a už je nám jasné, že bivak nás nemine. Ferda přelézá převis nad štandem, mizí mi z očí, a já chci věřit tomu, že je to poslední délka. Není. Ještě jednou štandujeme, ale potom už zbývá jen 20m snadnějším terénem. Jsme na hřebenu a můžeme nakouknout do severní stěny. Chvilka pro bilanci: je devět hodin, máme za sebou 14 hodin lezení a před sebou bivak. Mrzne, na hřebenu hrozně fouká, proto sestupujeme asi 5m zpět do závětří západní stěny. Noc je dlouhá. Trávíme ji v sedě, částečně nasoukáni v bivakovacích pytlích, na dvou malých poličkách. Zjišťujeme, že horolezectví je vlastně noční sport. Už od půlnoci  je dole pod námi živo. Vidíme světýlka co nastupují na Tour Ronde a Dent du Geant. Konečně svítání. Třeseme se jako malí psi. Ke slaňáku nám zbývají dvě délky za 4-5. Vedou ale severní stěnou, kde je plno ledu a sněhu a nikomu se do nich nechce. Zase se opakuje situace ze včerejška. Balancuji v lezečkách na zaledněné rampě a zoufale mlátím kladivem, abych si očistil alespoň kus skály. Skoby tu nejsou a tak se snažím něco založit sám. Snaha nestačí. Výsledkem mé činnosti je ztráta svazku vklíněnců. S několika šedivými vlasy navíc jsem konečně na konci rampy. Nemohu ale najít slaňák. Problém neřeší ani diskuse s Ferdou. Připadáme si jako  choromyslní. Oba jsme z vrcholu slaňovali a teď se nemůžeme zorientovat. Tři dobré skoby provázané novou smyčkou nám slanění před třemi lety moc nepřipomínají, ale jinou možnost teď nevidíme. Zorientovali jsme se po třech slaněních. Jsme mimo, ale máme štěstí. Cestou "Le voyage salon Gulliver"  to dolů jde také. V poledne jsme konečně u bot a cepínů a jsme moc rádi. Přezouváme se a ihned pokračujeme kuloárem dolů. Pro překonání okrajové trhliny to není nejvhodnější doba, ale snad to nějak půjde. Šlo to, i když Ferdovo proboření nás vylekalo. Je horko a jdeme jako dvě ztupělá zvířata. Ještě, že ke stanu je to jenom kousek.

Potom už vše probíhalo zcela standartně. Pití, jídlo, spánek, plahočení se na Midi, pivo v Chamonix, plány na příští rok a cesta domů.



Závěrem:
Přístup:  Ze Chamonix lanovkou na Aiguille du Midi, potom pěšky 3 hodiny pod Capucina, kde je pro postavení stanu místa dost.
Prvovýstupci: Walter Bonatti, Luciano Ghio, 20.-23.července 1951 Čistě - D.Chambre, J.B.Tribout, E.Escoffier, T.Renault 15.července 1983
Obtížnost: Průvodce uvádí 6A1, pokud chybí skoby A2. Při čistém přelezení jsou dvě délky 8-, zbytek převážně 7 s místy 7+.
Délka:  Grand Capucin má 3 838m, výška stěny od trhliny je 400m. Čistá vylezená výška je 300m, ale nalezená výška je díky traverzům zřetelně větší.
Čas:  Starší průvodce uvádí 10-20 hodin, novější 6-12 hodin. My jsme šneci, časů místních borců zdaleka nedosahujeme, ale těch 6 hodin si představuji obtížně.
Jištění:  Průvodce uvádí a má pravdu, že skoby nejsou vždy v nejlepší kvalitě. Štandy jsou dobré, ze skob. Nýt není v cestě žádný.
Charakter:  Má se jednat o čistě skalní výstup. Naše zápolení s ledem a sněhem přičítáme na srážky bohatému létu.
Sestup:  Slaněním. V horní části cestou "O sole mio", v dolní "Švýcarskou cestou".


Josef Smrtka a Pavel F. Pulec   [úpravy] 12:43 02.10.2002Tisk 

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 popis
Paradni akce a hezky clanek. Myslim, ze by se do clanku hodil i nakres cesty, treba oskenovany z pruvodce.Blahopreju k uspesnemu prelezu.
Zapsal: bolek, 14:06:16 02.10.2002
 Dobrej clanek
Hodnota, chlapi. Pekne jsem si pocetl a na foto ke s chuti pohledl.
Zapsal: JirkaS, 15:26:55 02.10.2002
 Dobry
Jo jo moc pekny. Zajimalo by me cim jste to fotili??
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 gratulace
No nezbývá než pogratulovat. Klobouk z hlavy pink.
Zapsal: Kuba, 11:37:56 03.10.2002
 Čím jsme fotili.
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gratujuju, jste práskači.
Zapsal: david, 20:58:08 07.10.2002
 Paráda
Blahopřeji,
parádní výkon a moc pěknej článek.
Zapsal: Dali, 08:55:59 09.10.2002
 Gratulace
No na "pobíječe much" jste kluci vysekli parádní prásk. Považuju si za čest, že za Vámi můžu opčas plápolat na dolním konci.
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 Taťkovi
Taťko seš fakt dobrej.
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 Taťkovi
Taťko seš fakt dobrej.
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