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Nový komentář 

 Kamikadze
Když ta dračí smyčka se po pádech tak dobře rozvazuje... A jak se odvážeš, tak zahodíš volný konec lana bez uzlu...Za klub kamikadze zapsal:
Zapsal: Bída, 09:19:06 16.09.2002
 klasik
kdyz ja to jinak neumim. a navic s pojistnym uzlikem udrzi i AN... za klasiky zapsal:
Zapsal: ajdam, 10:16:08 16.09.2002
 Horní osmička?
Tak teď jsem z toho trochu jelen. Můj instruktor výškových prací R. Matýsek myslím, že i soudní znalec v dané problematice nás učil, že horní osmičkový uzel (tedy pevnější varianta)je takový, kdy jde zatížený pramen vrchem uzlu - co nejblíže vytvořenému oku (smyčce), dedy naopak než je na vašem obrázku. Je to tak uvedeno taky v jeho publikaci Speleoalpinismus. Tak teď opravdu nevím která varianta je správná. Když uvážím, že žpatně navázaná osmička snižuje nosnost lana o dalších 10% tedy na 45% (v tom se shodujete), tak začnu raději znovu používat dračí smyčku, která snižuje pevnost lana na 52%.
Zapsal: Aleš, 15:00:40 16.09.2002
 nekritické přejímání laboratorních výsledků
tak teda abych řekl něco o aplikaci teoretických poznatků do praxe: Musí se opatrně a je třeba používat kritický rozum. Pro zkoušku je nějaká metodika, a ta musí být dodržována. Nejsou-li pak v praxi splněny sterilní požadavky zkoušky, nemusíme moc mudrovat o rozdílu mezi 45% a 52% pevnosti. Těmi podmínkami myslím: počáteční utažení uzlu, použité lano, jeho historie, časový průběh vnášení síly, teplota, vlhkost atd.
odkud pak jsou tahány pevnosti lana v uzlech? ve vyjmenovaném seznamu literatury to moc není, jsou tam formulace typu "při zkouškách bylo zjištěno...". problémem je, že lano není žádná ocel 11373 s jasně danými vlastnostmi a stoletou historií základního výzkumu, většina zkoušek je prováděna za peníze výrobců lan a ti pochopitelně takové draze získané informace v plné šíři nezveřejňují.

Stojím si za tím, že nemůže v praxi nastat přetržení lana, vyjma 3 případů: lano přes hranu, dříve poškozené lano (mechanicky, chemicky, tepelně...) a velmi opotřebované lano.

extrémní pád s extrémní silou působící na padajícího dřív chudáčkovi roztrhá pánev a rozmašíruje bederní páteř, než by prasklo lano v uzlu.

z toho pro mne plynou požadavky na navázovací uzel: 1. jednoduchost vázání a vizuální kontrolovatelnost, 2. minimalizace rizika rozvázání "vytřesením", 3. blbovzdornost a vyloučení rizika při "anomálním" namáhání.

vychází mi z toho osma.

a nakonec jazykovědný koutek (i/y): osmička (zdrobnělina, není vyjmenované slovo, viz samička, lahvička) smyčka (smýkati je vyjmenované slovo)
-
Zapsal: Lukas B., 15:27:08 16.09.2002
 draci smycka
Mne se draci smycka taky libi, a pokud se uvaze "dvojite" tak je i naprosto bezpecna. Tou dvojitou ale mam na mysli to jak je uvedeno napr. v Climbingu - http://www.climbing.com/Pages/Techtip_pages/208/techtip208_sport.html
- "double bowline" - jen pro jistotu zminuju, ze to tam doporucuji zkusenym lezcum a ne zacatecnikum!
cusrus.
Zapsal: jirka, 15:44:50 16.09.2002
 Nejnebezpečnější uzel
Mě osobně se jako nejnebezpečnější uzel jeví uzel na jazyku. Páč když lezeš nalitej je vizuální kontrola i jednoduchost vázání někde v ... . Je jedno jak se navážeš, hlavně nad tím přemejšlej. Muj názor.
Zapsal: Azbest, 16:09:08 16.09.2002
 vázání uzlů
Perfektní článeček.Dovolím si jen dodat že jsem na netu našel krásné ukázky vázání uzlů.Jsou rozkreslené tak jak se vážou.Je to na stránkách HO Šakal zde http://novell.felk.cvut.cz/~poltiem.rtime/metodika/metodika.htm

Toliko k doplnění.Jen dodám jedno.Osobně se přikládám k uzlu osmičkovému,jelikož se velice dobře váže a jde velice dobře letmým pohledem překontrolovat.Devítkovej je také OK,ale chce to více přemešlení při vázání,což je k ničemu.Pro ty co se vážou na dračák - "važte se jak chcete,ale nedělejte to před nováčkama ať si neudělají špatné návyky".
:-))))))
Zapsal: Himbajz, 19:40:19 16.09.2002
 dodatek
Ještě jsem zapomněl.Ta hlava.Dračák musí samozřejmě ovládat každěj.Je to přeci jenom uzel kterej jde uvázat jednou rukou a to je někdy setsakra potřeba.
Hore zdar
Himbajz
Zapsal: Himbajz, 19:43:03 16.09.2002
 Levá, pravá osmička
Můžu tedy aplikací "špatného" uzlu (levá a ještě třeba nesrovnaná osmička) ohrozit svoji bezpečnost? Že bych jako prvolezec spadnul s velkým pádovým faktorem a lano mi kvůli tomu prasklo v navazovacím uzlu?
Ještě cituji ze skript T. Franka: "Pevnější varianta uzlu je ta, při které jde zatížený pramen vrchem uzlu - co nejblíže vytvořenému oku, tzv. horní varianta." Podle mého výkladu této definice pak byla pevnější varianta na spodním, tmavém laně. Takže bohužel jasno v tom nemám.
Jinak samozřejmě článek hodnotím kladně.
Zdar
Zapsal: Lurtz, 09:01:48 17.09.2002
 Pevnosti atd...
Vážení a drazí, velmi mě těší, že se zde na má skripta tak často odvoláváte. Velmi rád bych však ujasnil některé nepřesnosti týkající se právě tohoto dílka, a posléze i několika zde diskutovaných témat. Tedy k dílku: Předpokládám, že většinou vycházíte z prvního vydání (O lanech a uzlování), které bylo poskytnuto pro nejméně dva ročníky školení instruktorů horolezectví II. tř. ČHS. Toto dílko bylo použito z nouze – prostě nic lepšího tehdy Metodická komise ČHS neměla k dispozici a nebylo původně určené pro instruktory. Bylo sepsáno pro potřeby mých nováčků v oddílové horoškole a nováčků v Lezeckých kurzech Krasové sekce ČSS. V době, kdy jsem toto dílko tvořil, jsem se rozhodně nemohl považovat za experta v dané oblasti (na rozdíl od zde zmiňovaných pánů dr. Antonína Zelenky, či Ing. Radomíra Matýska). Bohužel, jejich dílka na toto téma nejsou širší veřejnosti dostupná, a navíc, ne vždy vyhovovaly právě potřebám školení nováčků. Proto jsem sepisoval dotyčný textík, za jehož jediný klad osobně považuji nově překreslené obrázky, několik zcela nových obrázků, celkové zestručnění a myslím že i přehlednou koncepci.
To, že jsem posléze začal instruktory i učit uzlování, bylo opět způsobené nouzí (původně jsem v kurzech přednášel zcela odlišnou odbornost), na druhé straně to však vedlo k tomu, že jsem skutečně pečlivě sestudoval veškerou dostupnou literaturu včetně několika poměrně moderních děl zahraničních. To, a zároveň nutnost nabídnout budoucím instruktorům o něco lépe zpracovaná skripta, vedlo k sepsání dalšího dílka: Lana a uzly pro horolezce a jeskyňáře, tedy druhého upraveného a doplněného vydání předchozích skript. To je již výrazně lepší, avšak opět vyšlo jen jako jakási „meziverze“, neb tlačeni časem (termíny horoškoly a kurzů) jsme jej museli nakopírovat bez zapracování druhého kola připomínek (tedy dalších poznámek pánů Vl. Procházky, B. Kouteckého a dalších, kteří k tomuto tématu mají skutečně co dodat). Tedy tato skriptíčka vyšla s řadou nedostatků (jichž jsem si, kupodivu ,vědom), jako chybné popisky pod obrázky, nepřesné až zavádějící formulace, překlepy atd., včetně např. nepříliš dokonalého fázování obrázků – rozkreslení postupů uvázání uzlů. Všem, kteří toto dílko používají, se omlouvám (příště to už bude lepší).

A nyní k výše uvedené diskusi:
1. Pevnost uzlů: Zkouší se na standardních „trhačkách“ stejných jako používají zkušebny certifikované UIAA. Většinou podobné popisy proběhly u jednotlivých výrobců lan na popud zákazníků (obdob našich Bezpečnostních či Metodických komisí). Největší nevýhodou je, že ani v jednom případě není cela přesně popsaná metodiky zkoušek, mnohdy se ani neví, zda proběhly na lanech statických nebo dynamických o jejich průměru nemluvě. Podobné pokusy (s dost podobnými výsledky) však proběhly na několika místech a právě proto, že na různých lanech, lze je zevšeobecnit. Většinou uváděné výsledky, včetně těch mých, pocházejí z měření provedeného G. Marbachem (významným teoretikem JT, a autorem řady publikací o technickém lezení). Vzhledem ke specializaci autora výzkumu (záchranné techniky a speleoalpinismus), lze předpokládat, že pokusy byly prováděné se statickým lanem – a opět podotýkám, že podobné zkoušky (avšak bohužel na jiném základním vzorku uzlů) proběhly na dynamickém laně (Itálie) a obdobný pokus byl proveden i v Austrálii a na Slovensku – výsledky se lišily poměrně málo, a hlavně jsou zde vysledovatelné podobné trendy. V současné době se ve spolupráci Speleologické záchranné služby a fy. Singing Rock připravuje další série obdobných pokusů – o postupu a realizaci zatím nemám žádné zprávy.
2. Aplikace výše uvedených pokusů: kdosi zde správně podotýkal, že pevnost uzlu (resp. hodnota o kterou se sníží pevnost lana v uzlu) není relevantní, neb nepoškozené lano se přetrhne jen za velmi zvláštních okolností (např. na hraně). Tedy, vážení, prosím Vás, debaty o snižování pevnosti v uzlu a ještě o horních variantách jsou skutečně dost bezpředmětné (při sebetvrdším pádu na dynamickém lanu se při použití osmy, dračky nebo podobného uzlu lano v uzlu určitě ani nepoškodí, natožpak aby se přetrhlo – k poškození lana by mohlo dojít při velmi vysokém pádovém faktoru, např. na feratách, k samotnému přetržení v uzlu by teoreticky mohlo v tomto případě dojít při použití např. vůdcovského uzlu, tedy tzv. krejčíka). Podobné úvahy, jaké zde rozvíjíte nepatří do diskuse o navazování! Tyto věci nabývají na důležitosti až v okamžiku vykonávání složitějších úkonů (např. vyvazování tzv. tyroláků – síly zde vznikající jsou totiž mnohanásobně vyšší než síly vznikající při pádech). Ovšem pro podobné činnosti by každý, kdo je chce vykonávat, měl mít poněkud značnější teoretické zázemí – a to už skutečně přesahuje rámec výše uvedeného příspěvku.
3. Shrnutí uvedeného: není až tak podstatné na jaký z výše doporučených uzlů se navážete. Požadavky pro navazování splňuje vlastně řada uzlů (sobně preferuju osmu už i proto, že se mi dobře kontroluje najenom na sobě, ale zejména na nováčcích). Podstatnější je, aby např. osmy byla vždy upravená (špatně uvázaný uzel přenáší pevnost podobně jako ten krejčík), vždy byl ponechán dostatečně dlouhý volný konec a vždy byla použita pojistka.

A zcela nakonec: článek se mi líbí, autorům náleží dík - a taky obdif :-))), těším se na jejich další fotoseriálek (zaujal už ten první!). A mimochodem jsem vskutku potěšen, že metodické osvěty pro širé masy se ujímá někdo tak elegantně a přitom velmi fundovaně.
Zapsal: Tomáš F., 12:18:38 17.09.2002
 Pro Lukase B.
Pro Tvůj jazykovědný koutek: V mém příspěvku - vyhovovaly - nahraď si za y a - dílka vyhovovala :-)
A nehledej dál - bez korektora sem nemožnej :-)))
Zapsal: Tomáš F., 12:26:27 17.09.2002
 Tenká lana mají tendenci praskat v uzlu !
Když dáváme dohromady tyto ústřižky, vycházíme z nám známých a dostupných materiálů.Do dubna 2001 bych tvrdil totéž co Tomáš nebo Lukas.V časopisu Klettern 3/2001 vyšel dnes notoricky známý článek o testech tenkých jednoduchých lan 7 výrobců.Část.překlad Montana + jaro-léto 01 str.40.Dvě lana praskla v uzlu, jedno z nich vždy v uzlu.Foto str.77 v Kletternu.Další upozornění na prasklá lana v uzlu - Montana č.4/02 str.43 V.Procházka,Montana+ jaro-léto 02 str.35 V.Procházka.
Je pravdou, že procenta o kolik se sníží nosnost lana uzlem jsou orientační.Chtěli jsme tím říci, že většina uzlů snižuje nosnost při zatížení NN méně než při zatížení AN.Výjimka - tzv.Motýlky.
Myslím si ,že u tenkých jednoduchých lan (průměr menší než 10 mm) je potřeba při navazování zvažovat uzel , který sníží nosnost lana co možná nejméně.
Ještě k levé a pravé osmičce.Zde vyfocené uzly odpovídají popisu a jsou zřejmě jen jinak srovnány než v jiných Vašich materiálech.
Jinak díky všem co se tu s námi snaží.
Zapsal: John, 22:26:43 17.09.2002
 dračák
Neni nad draci smycku pojistenou dvojtym rybim uzlem.
Zapsal: kamilh, 09:18:28 18.09.2002
 Tenká lana
Nečetl jsem bohužel Montanu Plus Jaro/Leto 2001 a 2002, ale jak vidím výše, neznamená automaticky, že tenké jednoduché lano = lano praskající v uzlu. Asi o co je zranitelnější typ (třeba lano tenčí než 10mm), o to kvalitnější musí konstrukce lana být, aby k praskání v uzlu nedocházelo.
Zapsal: Lurtz, 19:56:03 18.09.2002
 Nove poznatky
Myslel jsem si, ze po vice nez 15 letech lezeni o nem vim vse, ale kazdy vas clanek me pouci o tom, ze je treba se stale vzdelavat. Johne, Bolku diky.
Zapsal: JirkaS, 19:13:35 19.09.2002
 Pro pořádek...
I když také považuji pevnostní rozdíl mezi horní a dolní Osmičkou za nepodstatný (především z důvodu nejasné metodiky prováděných pokusů - jak už tady zmínil Lukáš), tak mi to nedá, a znovu to připomenu, co již tady zmínil Aleš.

Zde uvedené varianty horní a dolní Osmičky se liší od toho, co uvádí ve své publikaci "Speleoalpinismus" Radomil Matýsek. Podle něj má ten pramen lana, který z uzlu vychází a bude zatěžován, v uzlu opisovat oblouk co nejblíže k smyčce. Tedy tak, jak je zde uvedeno pod názvem "levá -10%".

Je to zjevný rozpor, a přes to, že procentuální rozdíl pevnosti obou variant uzlu není pro horolezectví až tak podstatný, mi nepřijde dobré to nechat jen tak být.

Pochopitelně jsem si uzel navázal a jal se ho koumat. Vyjdu-li z logické úvahy, že lanu škodí ohyb (čím ostřejší ohyb o malém poloměru, tím větší ztráta pevnosti), a prohlédnu-li si navázaný uzel (především doporučuji netypický pohled z boku), tak spíše dávám za pravdu R.Matýskovi. Je-li zatěžovaný pramen po vstupu do uzlu blíže k smyčce, je ohnut pozvolněji, a při tahu se tento k smyčce bližší pramen tiskne na ten druhý souběžný pramen, který je od smyčky dál. Čili ten vzdálenější pramen od smyčky je tam jakoby tlumící.

Uf, já vím že takto je to pro představivost děsivé, ale kdo chce, tak si ten uzel naváže (nutno úhledně, oba prameny pravidelně vedle sebe), prohlídne, a bude to určitě jasnější.

Johne, Bolku, ještě se mrkněte do svých podkladů, literatury, opravdu se domnívám, že by to mělo být obráceně, než jste uvedli.

Zdravím Tomáš (HO SAKAL)
Zapsal: Tomas, HO Sakal, 22:33:49 19.09.2002
 Levá a pravá
U správné osmičky musí být první zatěžovaný ohyb s větším poloměrem.Na našich obrázcích je první zatěžovaný ohyb vyznačen.Je jasně patrné, že naše horní - pravá osmička má první zatěžovaný ohyb s větším poloměrem.Mám před sebou publikaci A.Zelenky (podle nás nejrenomovanější dílo co máme k dispozici) a námi předkládané řešení je stejné jako v této publikaci.
Zapsal: John, 09:21:50 20.09.2002
 ad. Levá, pravá
Jo, souhlas s Johnem... (teda nemám před sebou ani kus špagátu, ani uvedenou literaturu, ale zdá se mi to v pořádku tak jak uvádějí).

A ještě jedna poznámka: ze skriptíček Tondy Zelenky jsme vycházeli všichni, kteří jsme o ulování kdy něco sepsali - bohužel nejsou v podstatě k sehnání jinak než stálým kopírováním a hodí se spíše pro "velké teoretiky" neb je to sice to nejlepší, co u nás kdy o lezeckých uzlech bylo sepsáno, ale bylo to dělané pro potřeby záchrany a JT. Pro horolezeckou praxi je to příliš rozsáhlé dílko. Mimochodem Johne, kterépak máš vydání?
A pro Toma: Mates rovněž vychází z Tondova textu, nemyslím, že by právě v uzlování přinášel nějakou zásadnější inovaci :-) Ale slibuju Vám, že se doma eště mrknu (a snad i zauzluju).
Zapsal: Tomáš F., 12:01:37 20.09.2002
 Resume osmičky
OK, že Zelenka to má uvedené stejně jako vy tady. Dík, že jsi se podíval, aspoň je v tomto jistota.
Ale to nic nemění na tom, že jiné zdroje to uvádějí jinak.

Pro Tomáše Franka: Jeden z těch jiných zdrojů jsou i tvoje skripta pro instrukory. Tam variantu osmičky uvádíš stejně jako R.Matýsek. Asi se na to fakt ještě podívej...:-)

Takže problém je v tom, že oboje zároveň nemůže být správně. Někde se chyba stát musela. Buď je to blbě tady (na Lezci.cz, potažmo to má blbě Zelenka), nebo se to blbě učili instruktoři (a s nimi ještě asi část populace speleologů, co četli Matýska).

Zdravím TK
Zapsal: Tomas, HO Sakal, 08:20:57 23.09.2002
 ad. Tom Kubak :-)
No to sem si dal s tim slibem, že to našprtám... Hele Tome, já se začínám obávat, že uvedený rozpor nevznikl až Matýskovou interpretací Zelenky, bohužel se liší už i starší zahraniční prameny.
Obávám se, že to nevyjasníme bez pokusu na trhačce.
Zapsal: Tomáš F., 11:49:53 25.09.2002
 uzle
Párkrát zde byla zmíněna správná poloha nosného konce lana ta horní (teď pomíjím žabomyší spory o to, kdo má špatnou terminologii). Během doby, co se na špagátech pohybuji a zejména poté, co jsem začal školit výškové pracovníky a záchranáře-lezce (hasiče-lezce), jsem se začal setkávat s tím, že mládenci sice správně navázali uzel, že nosný pramen měli v horní poloze, ale po zatížení (vlivem nedostatečného utáhnutí uzlu před použitím) se pramen sesmekl a křížilo se to hůř, než kdyby pramen ponechali v té dolní, mnohými proklínané, poloze. Proto se domnívám, že lépe, než hádat se o terminologii a o to, která poloha je tou správnou, je mít záruku, že se prameny lana nikde zbytečně nekříží. Možná to někomu přijde jako málo, ale méně může být někdy více.

Znalost uzlů... spousta z Vás se tu chlubila tím, že užíváte zásadně osmičku a nikoliv dračák, protože… Uznávám, že dračí smyčka vyžaduje trochu cviku, než ji člověk pozná jak vizuálně, tak i dle pohmatu. Párkrát jsem se již setkal s tím, že zejména nováčci snáze zkontrolovali správnost dračí smyčky, než osmičky.
Někdo z přítomných prohlásil, že dračí smyčka by se neměla užívat před nováčky, ať prý nepochytí špatné návyky. Myslí tím pisatel, že užívání dračáku je špatný návyk? Já užívání tohoto uzle vřele doporučuji. Nadávejte si na snižování pevnosti lana, které čtete z nějakých příruček, ale na jakém základě uvádí tyto příručky údaje? Na základě testů provedených před X-lety. Jenomže od té doby se konstrukce lan, technologie výroby a užívané materiály natolik změnily, že pevnostní rozdíl mezi správně navázanou osmičkou a dračákem je přibližně mezi 3%-5%, tedy při kvalitě dnešních lan téměř zanedbatelný. Takže zde se naprosto ztotožňuji s bodem 2. sáhodlouhého článku Tomáše F.

Bohužel jsem se právě u horolezců (zejména těch brojících proti dračáku) setkal s tím, že vyjma osmičky neumí žádný jiný uzel navázat. Dost často ani osmičkovou smyčku ne (tedy i do karáble osmičku píchají). Táži se Vás tedy, jak dlouho Vám trvá ukotvení lana třeba kolem výtahové šachty na střeše paneláku od okamžiku, kdy to lano vytáhnete z pingle? Nebo jak ukotvíte lano kolem dvou stromů, aby byly rovnoměrně zatěžovány oba dva a přitom nemáte žádné smyčky a karabiny, nebo druhé lano k provázání pavouka. Ve vší úctě, kterou ke všem přítomných chovám, se domnívám, že jen málo z Vás dokáže z voleje uvázat dvojitou osmičkovou smyčku píchanou (nehledě na správný odhad délky lana). Proto tedy pánové, než začnete nějaký uzel pomlouvat, či odmítat, naučte se jej nejprve pořádně vázat, používat a hlavně si ho vyzkoušejte!!!

A těm, co se dračí smyčce nebrání, bych chtěl doporučit Yosemitskou dračí smyčku. Tento uzel je vážně třída. Domnívám se, že až se s ním setkáte a vyzkoušíte si ho, oblíbíte si ho stejně tak rychle, jako jsem tak učinil já (zájemcům rád zašlu informace, či návod k tomuto uzlu).

K dostupnosti informací o uzlech bych chtěl říci pouze toto: z toho, co jsem doposud objevil na internetu v češtině, Vám asi nejvíce mohou dát právě zmiňované stránky HO Sakal (jejich nejaktuálnější verze je tuším na http://sakal.stredozem.cz/). Co se uzlů (a pak ještě takzvané zdravovědy a záchrany – k ostatnímu nejsem kompetentní se vyjadřovat) týče, jsou tam, sice nějaké blbosti a chyby (Tomáš z HO Sakal promine), ale stále je to lepší, než jiné na českém webu dostupné informace, a nesčetněkrát lepší, než absolutní neznalost mnohých, co nosí v batohu lano. Zahraniční weby nabízí mnohé další informace (některé vynikající, některé horší...).

Byla tu zmíněna publikace Radomila Matýska Speleoalpinismus I, ve které se autor zabývá mimo jiné i problematikou uzlů (na jaře letošního roku vyšla v digitální podobě na CD –ROM nová verze Speleoalpinismus I, II). Ani Tato publikace není úplně to pravé, o čem se domnívám, že mi českém trhu chybí, ale z toho, s čím jsem se doposud setkal je asi tím nejlepším.
Těm, co k autorovi nemají důvěru bych chtěl říci, že Radomil Matýsek se na špagátech pohybuje přes dvacet let, tedy déle, než se mnozí přítomní pohybují po tomto světě. Za tu dobu získal četné zkušenosti a dovednosti. Posledních deset let je i záchranářem lezcem nejen ve Speleologické záchranné službě. K jeho velké cti patří i to, že na rozdíl od svých vrstevníků a mnohých mladších, neustrnul na tom, co se používalo před X-set lety, ale stále kráčí s dobou a učí se (a následně učí) i nové věci, včetně nejnovějších poznatků. Proto mi nezbývá, než říci: "Mates, skvělá práce, pokračuj tak i nadále!"
Mějte se krásně
Glück auf
Iru – Správa registru nerostných surovin


PS: Někdo si posteskl nad špatnou dostupností publikace Speleoalpinismus. 1. díl lze pořídit na sekretariátu České speleologické společnosti (Agentura ochrany přírody, Kališnická 4-6, Praha 3 /www.speleo.cz/), nebo přímo u autora společně s CD ROMem (1. díl se na CD mírně liší od tištěné publikace, doporučuji proto obojí), který stojí kolem 100,- Kč (Speleomat s.r.o, 28. října 207, Ostrava /www.speleomat.cz/)
Zapsal: iru, 14:34:10 13.10.2002
 OMLUVA
Ve svém předchozím textu jsem uvedl, že na stránkách Horolezeckého oddílu Sakal, jsou nějaké hlouposti a chyby. Abych uvedl věci na pravou míru, jsou to pouze některé drobnosti, které se Vás nijak v reálu nedotknou. Jedná se spíše o terminologii a jiné, nijak zásadní věci. Proto samostudiem z těchto stránek rozhodně nic nezkazíte a svůj účel – informování lezounů plní výborně.
Za svůj neuvážený a zbrklý výrok se tímto autorům omlouvám. Minimálně proto, že dělají skvělou práci. Jen více takových. Teď jsme s autory zahájili komunikaci a věřím, že po dotažení celé záležitosti Vás budeme informovat.
Ještě jednou se kluci omlouvám a pokračujte tak, jak doposud.


Petře, možná ti má obhajoba dračáku přijde dojemná, ale je upřímná. Zmínil jsem tam, že je zapotřebí se s uzlem naučit pracovat. Tím maximálně eliminuješ jakékoliv nebezpečí.
Ano, dračí smyčka je známá tím, že se při obvodovém zatížení povoluje a právě proto by s tím měl lezec počítat. Ve všech příručkách máš zakresleno, na kterém pramenu má být pojistný uzel. Ty, jako každý jiný lezec víš, že pojistný uzel má být doražen až k hlavnímu uzlu, tedy když vážeš pojistný uzel, tak co nejblíže k tomu hlavnímu kotevnímu uzli s co nejkratším mrtvým prostorem volného konce lana. Nevím, jak se to učí v horoškolách, ale v příručkách se uvádí, že jako pojistný uzel stačí jednouchý rybářský. Dovoluji si nesouhlasit a tvrdím, že jako pojistný uzel používejte dvojitý rybářský uzel. Takto zajištěná dračí smyčka se Ti neuvolní ani při obvodovém zatížení. Nehledě na to, že při použití již dříve zmiňované Yosemitské dračí smyčky tohoto jevu nedocílíš ani když pojistný uzel nenavážeš (tím ale nenavádím nikoho k tomu aby ho s YDS neužíval, ba právě naopak). Máš-li zájem, přijď, já Ti uvážu dračí smyčku a zkus jí rozvázat pouze obvodovým zatížením, či jiným užíváním.

Ad publikace Rizika na skále atd. Nezlob se na mě, ale tuto publikaci shledávám pouze jako bombastickou knížku, jejímž účelem je pouze šokovat a následně až pak seznámit s reálnými situacemi. Jako učebnici ji však neshledávám jako nějaký zázračný, ba právě naopak. Znovu opakuji, že při správném uvázání dračáku je toto riziko naprosto minimální.
Glück auf
Iru
Správa registru nerostných surovin
Zapsal: iru, 13:58:24 15.10.2002
 Re: Iru
"bombastickou knížku, jejímž účelem je pouze šokovat" ?? divím se že jsi ji rovnou nezařadil mezi bulvární tisk. Trochu přibrzdi, tvoje zapálenost pro obhajobu dračí smyčky je sice obdivuhodná ale myslím že ti chybí potřebný nadhled.
Zapsal: Špicál, 14:23:21 15.10.2002
 Re:Spical
A co jinýho to je než bulvár. Se koukni na fotky, jsou jako z Novy:-).
Jak je to páni vzdělaní ( nehledejte tam ironii ) s devítkovým uzlem? Nevykazuje lepší parametry než osmičkový?
Zapsal: Maty, 14:30:59 15.10.2002
 moje!!!!!!!
Co se tady, saláti, navážíte do mojí s(a)myčky? Bacha na to. Jináč tu Yosemitskou neznám, seznámení bych uvítal, zn. foto vítáno.
Zapsal: Soptík, 15:32:43 15.10.2002
 Yos. dr. sm.
Jo ta by me taky zajimala, nemohl by ji nekdo zverejnit? at je tu misto naseho tlachani taky neco uzitecnyho.
Zapsal: Spical, 15:43:01 15.10.2002
 Yosemitská dračí smyčka
Takže pro zájemce o Yosemitskou dračí smyčku...
Najdete ji na <a href="http://www.sweb.cz/iru-eligwe/YDS.doc">www.sweb.cz/iru-eligwe/YDS.doc</a> . Pokud se to nepodařilo, pošlu ji zájemcům mailem.

Nezlob se na mě, ale knížka mi připomíná jednu z knížek třeba o starých zbraních. Taky jsou tam obrovské obrázky, ale informační hodnota textu je podobná dětskému slabikáři.

Špicál - nejsi čirou náhodou jménem Jirka Š. a nebyl jsi nositelem obrovského dredu? No nejsi v kontaktu s Ajkou?

Moje obhajoba dračí smyčky je hlavně upřímná. Nesouhlasím totiž s postojem těch, kteří neumí dračák pořádně uvázat, natožpak použít a pak ji hodně nahlas odsuzují. Těmto lidem chybí Tebou zmíněný nadhled. Možná Ti připadám zaujatý, ale stejně bych hájil osmičku, či devítku, kdyby je někdo neprávem pomlouval. Dračák má prostě své pevné místo na světě a nikdo nemá právo mu toto místo upírat.
Zapsal: Iru, 17:21:44 15.10.2002
 Yosemitská dračí
ha, tak hodit to jako odkaz se mi nepodařilo, takže:
http://www.sweb.cz/iru-eligwe/YDS.doc
Zdař Bůh
Iru
Zapsal: , 17:24:14 15.10.2002
 Jaxmě odhalil?
Tybrďo, klobouk dolu, a pak že je internet anonymní :-).
Já dračku nezatracuju, v některejch případech je nezbytná a umět by jí měl rozhodně každej.
Hlavní deviza Schuberta je podle mě právě v tom že se zbytečně nevykecává a stručně ale jasně poukazuje na konkrétní problémy (a většinou uhodí hřebík na hlavičku).
No to je jedno, dořešíme to po mejlu.
Zapsal: Spical, 17:31:56 15.10.2002
 Tady se to zase rozjíždí...
Se to tady rozjelo...
Jen pár maličkostí:

1. Maty, devítka skutečně vykazuje lepší parametry, jen není vždy praktická (zkus ji vázat jako protiběžnou..., "žere" lano atd.). Proto všici chodíme a prosazujeme osmu.

2. Bezpečnost a rizoto... V podstatě je pravdou co se zde o dotyčné knize objevilo! Jenže bez souvislostí. Jde o maličkost. U nás dlouho nevyšla slušná učebnice. V německu nejmíň čtyři (to je dáno zejména větším trhem - tedy rozvahou nakladatelů, našim metodikům - např. i tady výše zmiňovanému Chroustovi - Vl. Procházka ml. a dalším to moc vyčítat nelze). Takže uvedená kniha NEBYLA psána jako učebnice. Je to upozornění na případé možné průsery. Proto ji také svým nováčkům doporučuju - akorát že ty učebnice jim musím sehnat (nebo napsat) někde jinde. Jedná se tedy o doporučenou literaturu a nadstavbu k učebnicím. Ta kniha byla napsána s úmyslem šokovat! A fakt není učebnicí. A jako takovou ji považuju za dobrou. A doporučuju i starým borcům i když v ní pro sebe nového třeba najdou málo!

3. Dračka. No přiznám se, i já ji nováčky učím a trvám na její perfektní znalosti! Ukamenujte mě! Je (pode mého názoru) nezastupitelná: není jiného spolehlivého uzlu tak snadno navázatelného jednou rukou, těžko uvážete jiný uzel rychleji... Na druhé straně je skutečně nutné vědět o jejích nevýhodách (ale každý myslící jedinec, pokud si ten uzel prohlédne, si její případné chování v určitých situacích musí odvodit, žejo). Ovšem kvůli nemyslícím jedincům byla vynalezena bezpečnostní pravidla. Kupodivu se zde shodují jeskyňáři s horolezci. UIAA nedoporučuje jako navazovací uzel. UIS a ČSS ji rovnou zapovídají k tomuto použití. Aplikace a dodržování pravidel je věcí každého z nás - dokud nedojde k průšvihu. Jako instruktor jsem zodpovědný za to co naučím. Nenavazuju se na dračku (už jsem odvykl, neb s novčky lezu až příliš často). Pokud bych schytal nováčka nemyslícího, a on se zrakvil na dračce, měl bych špatné svědomí.

A ještě navrch: ten Speleoalpinismus na výše uvedené adrese je skutečně k mání za dvacku (doporučuju předem zavolat - na oficiálních stránkách ČSS je číslo - zadejte do vyhledávače heslo spelologická jako Česká ... společnost). Je tomu tak proto, že kdysi vycházely tyto tituly jako dotované, takže je tam k mání např. i Jeskyňářství v teorii a praxi (P. Bosák a kol.), obsahující mj. mnoho zajímavého o vápencové geomorfologii a další... Za cenu kopií vám zde i namnoží nesehnatelnou Zelenovu publikaci (kterou osobně považuji za to nejlepší co na dané téma v češtině vyšlo) a tak...
Jeskyňářství i Speleoalpinismus jsem věnoval i knihovně ČHS, kde si je lze, stejně jako skripta pro instruktory horolezectví, zapůjčit (výpůjční řád viz stránky ČHS www.horosvaz.cz). Ve státní technické knihovně je k dispozici jedno z nejobsáhlejších děl na toto téma - Námornické uzly (nějaké Bratislavské technické nakladatelství kdysi v osdesátých letech), a myslím že to bylo tamtéž, kde jsem dokonce zahlédl několikatery skripta pro mariňáky - v ruštině, němčině, holandštině.

Jo a Iru: myslím, žes Matesa s těmi dvaceti lety lezení podcenil. Přes dvacet let lezu já a když jsem začínal, patřil Mates mezi známé kapacity :-))
Zapsal: Tomáš F., 10:24:33 16.10.2002
 Tomáš F.
Já se Matesa rozhodně nesnažím nijak podcenit těch dvacet let jsem hodil z krapet jiného důvodu a to toho, že přibližně před těmi dvaceti lety se začala užívat jednolanová technika. Vím, že se lezení Mates věnuje od dob svých studií (kdy tomu bylo to nevím, snad to nějaký kolega archeolog dohledá). Teˇˇd vážně, nemohu komentovat jeho lezecké výkony z dob, kdy jsem byl ještě tekutej, nebo byl zrovna batole...

A ještě k té devítce, parametry neparametry, lepší dobře uvázaná osmička, než špatně uvázaná devítka!!!
Zapsal: , 14:56:01 16.10.2002
 Jo...
...jenže to můžeš rovnou zevšeobecnit. Lepší je dycky dobře uvázanej uzel (V Bohatýrský trilogii figuroval nápis nade dveřmi: "Lepší dobrej nůž, než dvě mizerný pistole")
Zapsal: Tomáš F., 15:02:17 16.10.2002
 Jo....
To sice máš pravdu, ale občas se člověk setká s paskvilem, který jeho autor nazývá devítkou, zatímco osmu zvládá na jedničku...
Zapsal: Iru, 21:45:40 17.10.2002
 No jo...
Je dycinky lepší než znát stovku uzlů špatně, umět uvázat čtyři základní spolehlivě :-)))

To mi připomíná spoustu vejškařů. Mnozí umí vázat pouze osmičku, ale za to na tisíc způsobů a tu vážou všude a kupodivu jsou stále mezi námi. Občas se vážně nestíhám divit.
Zapsal: Iru, 14:54:38 22.10.2002
 pravá - levá
Jelikož existuje pravá a levá varianta osmičky, tak určitě také logicky existuje pravá a levá varianta devítky. Je známo, jaký je mezi nimi rozdíl v nosnosti?
Zapsal: Lumír, 12:56:41 25.08.2004
 Vydržať
Debaty zde zveřejněné jsou zajímavé, ale místy připomínají mlácení prázdné slámy. Sorry. Vydržte ještě chvíli a dostane se vám všem nových informací o pevnostech uzlů. Právě dělám testy a výsledky jsou velice, velice zajímavé.

Mates

P.S. Neřešte, jak kdo dlouho do problému dělá, ale jak do něj hluboko pronikl a zda neustrnul a stále hledá pravdu. To je, doufám, můj případ.
Zapsal: Mates, 09:55:30 22.10.2004
 Je někde výsledek?
Mates, jak to dopadlo? :)
Zapsal: namklim, 19:22:58 30.06.2006
 Bacha na Yosemitskou !!! :-((((
Výtečný článek a výtečné komentáře :-)) Neodolal jsem abych se okamžitě nenaučil Yosemitskou dračí smyčku. BACHA! Pokud uzel "šikovně" srovnáte a zatížíte tak z něj docela snadno vznikne kluzná smyčka!!!!!!
Stačí zatížit konec mířící z uzlu doleva (lano mířící z původní dračí smyčky) a jeden z pramenů mířících do oblouku smyčky. Na fotografii na www.sweb.cz/iru-eligwe/YDS.doc to je to to lano které tvoří spodní polovinu smyčky; na kresleném obrázku to je ta část smyčky která je kreslena žlutě-budete-li tahat je za žluté konce a volná zeleně označená část nebude pod napětím... Ne že by se takové zatížení v praxi objevovalo často, ale....... ????

Zapsal: Filip, 19:47:22 31.08.2006
 Levá a pravá osmička a devítka
Pevnější je ten konec, který se ohýbá méně, opisuje mírnější, větší oblouk. Oblouk s větším poloměrem. Základní uzly SZS od A.Zelenky praví: ... zatěžovaný pramen má bezprostředně po vstupu do uzlu v něm opisovat horní oblouk, tj. co nejblíže k vlastnímu oku smyčky..... Když si k tomu srovnáte ilustrace v knize (viz http://sakal.stredozem.cz/ metodika/ metodika.htm, resp. obr. č. 5 z knihy A. Zelenky na http: //metodika.sakal. stredozem.cz /hdosma/ osmzelenka3.jpg ), je zřejmé že uzel se váže nejprve naplocho. Nemohu sem dát obrázek ale pokusím se to popsat: uvažte osmičku co nejplošší tak aby oba prameny vedly stále vedle sebe. Oba prameny stále leží ve vodorovné ploše, vertikálně se nikde nekříží. Zatěžovaný pramen vstupuje do uzlu okem a pak opisuje široký oblouk nejblíže oku smyčky-přesně jak praví Zelenka. Po dotažení a srovnání osmičky se ale tento oblouk přesmykne dále od oka (oba prameny se přitom podélně protočí). Ale oblouk má stále větší poloměr ohybu-přesně jako to je zde na fotografii PRAVÉ osmičky. Zkuste si vést dvě pomyslné tečny k oběma okům. Obě přímky se sbíhají-jako bych nad číslici 8 napsal obrácené písmeno V. To znamená že nejvzdálenější ohyb je nyní menší, užší. A tedy i slabší-což je v pořádku.
Takže osmičku vázat naplocho, pevnější konec vede blíže u oka smyčky (nejdále od pevného konce) ale po utažení a srovnání se přesmykne dále od oka smyčky-blíče středu uzlu. Totéž se děje s okem na opačném-spodním-konci osmičky.
Stejné to je s devítkovým uzlem-tady si myslím že je zde na uvedené fotce chyba. Pevný konec je ten který má větší poloměr ohybu. Na fotce výše to je ten, který NEMÁ červenou čáru. Horní polovina devítkového uzlu pak bude shodná s osmičkovým uzlem...
Zapsal: Filip, 21:36:47 01.09.2006
 niemand
no jo no, já ji dělám furt, a koukám koukám , co tu píšou, žádná chvála.
Zapsal: , 15:45:25 21.09.2006
 top
ja uz umim vsechny A je to sranda za ctyri hodky
Zapsal: TOMÁŠ FENDRYCH, 22:16:37 04.11.2007
 
no tak od Matese se těžko něco dozvíte když je v nebíčku
Zapsal: milano, 14:45:05 16.10.2009
 uzol kamikadze
ako sa viaze uzol kamikadze tento uzol,Prosim aj nakres a popis dakujem Peter
Zapsal: Peter, 08:02:13 09.07.2010
 kamikadze
tento uzol sa pouziva pri zlanovani skal ak chces aby ti lano ostalo urobis si slucku plus druhu pri com jednu odrezes a druha musi ostat celu dobu napnuta ak povolis slucku lano sa odviaze a ty dostanes svoje lano ;)
Zapsal: Stanislav, 23:20:47 24.09.2011
 leva, prava, horni nebo dolni osmicka
Ja znovu zacnu s tou osmickou :) Nezlobte se, ale pride mi, ze veta: "Podle testů je pevnější variantou pravá, neboli horní osmička - zatěžovaný pramen lana vchází do uzlu dále od osy uzlu vnějším ( větším) obloukem." nekoresponduje s tim obrazkem nad ni. Podle me je na obrazku nahore varianta prava a DOLNI! (zatezovany pramen je blize k ose uzlu) a dole s komentarem -10% je varianta leva HORNI :)

Ktera varianta je tedy podle vas spravne? ta kde je zatezovany pramen dale od osy uzlu (horni),tak jak tvrdite, nebo ta kde je zatezovany pramen blize k ose uzlu (dolni), tak jak mate na obrazku.
Dekuji mnohokrat za osvetleni.
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Kelly said, “This was personal. I never forgot that Joe Reznick (commander of detectives in the 34th Precinct at the time, now NYPD assistant chief) gave the eulogy at the little girl’s funeral.”

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