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Marmolada

Moderní časy

Jedeme lízt na Marmošku! Kdo to vymyslel nevím, nejspíš Johny který měl v Jižní stěně zavěšený už dva pytle a tak chtěl svoji sbírku rozšířit - v Messnerově variantě Vinatzera ještě pytel nemá. Jde do toho s motorkářem Čendou, já s polezem Magnuskem hodláme zavěsit Moderní časy.  Cesta autem je dlouhá, jedeme celou noc jelikož se nám nechce platit dálnice a průjezd Brenerem. V serpentýnách v Dolomitech se Čendovi udělalo nevolno ale nakonec nezvrací, škoda. Z Malga Ciapely pod stěnu je to pěkná procházka, s báglama asi tři hodiny. V půlce pochodu nás chytá bouřka. Schováváme se pod převisem a jsme dost v pohodě jelikož Čenda vytahuje asi 10 (!) řízků a naprosto hustý Pokemoní kvarteto (doporučuju :-). Konečně je po dešti. Jdeme dál a nervózně pokukujeme do stěny, naštěstí schne docela rychle. První je suchá Ryba ale na tu sme moc malý píva.


Ráno v půl pátý vstávat, něco sníst a hurá pod nástup. "No to mi pos.." kleje Magnusek a když pohlédnu do stěny hned vím proč. Jediní lidé v údolí kromě nás a visej zrovna v první dýlce Moderních časů, sakra to je pech. Nějací němci. Maj každej tatranku a půl litru vody, že prej to chtěj stihnout v jednom dni, hmm. Hošík s dvanácti presama, pár friendy a mágem (nic proti :-) sedí ve skobce a neví jak dál. Po chvíli slaňuje a pouští nás dopředu. Magnusek se hrne vzhůru jako o život a dost bojuje. Je mi jasný že mám problém protože když on se v tom takhle klepe tak to musí bejt fakt nátěr. Navíc mu ze slizký spárky vyklouzává ruka, naštěstí ta mizerná skobka co s ní jde hejbat rukou pád udržela, holt VII+ v horách no. Další pokus kupodivu vychází a první štand je dobyt. Němci se mezitím rozhodují pro vedlejší lehčí cestu "Gogna" a ptají se kudy to vede. Ti kreténi sebou nemaj ani náčrtek stěny! Po první dýlce naštěstí slaňují a mizí v údolí. Sem docela rád že je nebudeme muset zachraňovat. My se pomalinku suneme vzhůru ale jde to ztuha. Dolinou znějí naše výkřiky, komentující klasifikaci např. "Ku..., todle přece neni šestka", nebo "Do p... takovoudle pětku sem dlouho nelez", ale asi ještě nejsme správně rozlezení. Odpoledne už to jde mnohem líp a tak vychutnáváme krásný lezení na tření. Nikam nespěcháme a tak jsme na bivakovací polici až v půl šestý večer, ulezýno máme dvanáct dýlek + jednu nad policí ještě Magnusek natáhne a nechá v ní lano na zítra. Čenda s Johnym co mají spát vedle nás furt nejdou a tak musíme oželet dohodlou večerní partičku pokemonů. A já se na ni celej den tak těšil. Nakonec předsi jen dorážejí a kupodivu vypadají docela čerstvě. Nejvíc mě vytáčí že ty chujové celou noc spějí, což nás klepače kosy vysloveně irituje. Inu bez spacáku to ve 2800 mnm není ono, asi sem si měl vzít ještě jedno tričko navíc.


Není nad to se ráno kolem čtvrté zahřát žumarováním po laně. Reverzo od Petzla se mi na šplhání bohužel vůbec neosvědšilo (zájemcům řeknu proč) a tak o zábavu opravdu nebyla nouze, příště radši prusík! Další dýlky sou dost lehký takže výstup připomíná spíš pochodové cvičení. V 17. dýlce naštěstí opět přituhuje takže batohy putují z ramen dolů a Magnusek si při tahání krásně zacvičí. Má z toho opravdu radost! Sluníčko pere jak šílený, mažeme se ale moc to nepomáhá => spálenej krk (navíc sedřenej vod prsáku). Vládne dobrá nálada a tak se pouštím do čelby. Jde to dobře akorát tochu bloudím. Leze se tu po dírách a ty nejsou odspodu moc vidět takže klasická houbařina. Po třech pochybnejch štandech už nevim kudy a tak zase leze Magnus. Právě včas, dál to nejde nikudy a tak asi hodinku traverzuje sem a tam (a nadává), pak někam naleze, dál to ovšem nejde, tak slaní a opět traverzuje (a nadává). Mám aspoň čas vydechnout a pozoruji Čendu který shodou okolností zrovna bloudí asi padesát metrů vpravo ode mě. Magnusek nakonec štanduje asi pět metrů nade mnou a dvacet vlevo. Bohužel cestou zapomněl dát jištění. Při propočítání dráhy kyvadla mi baťoh proklatě ztěžknul, když ale vidím Džonyho jak hrdině bojuje s Messnerem tak se vzchopuju a ono je to nakonec docela lehký. Magnusek mezitím objevil kudy dál, takže přetraverzujeme opět zpátky :) a hurá nahoru. Pozitivní díry a dírky v kolmý stěně, no to je lábuš. Jelikož todle máme natrénovaný z Jury a Panťáku tak není co řešit, poslední sedmová dýlka a v půl šestý jsme na bočním vrcholu (Punta Rocca, 3309). Kluci dolezli dlouho před náma, ale jelikož nenašli sestupovou feratu tak je u lanovky potkáváme a společně jdeme sjezdovku dolů (dokavaď je sníh tak si užívám bezvadnej sjezd). V osum večer jsme na sedle Fedaia (2057) a dáváme oslavný pivka za 3,5 euro. Tu dálku po silnici (sestoupili jsme na severní stranu) se nám vůbec nechce šlapat, naštěstí je stop úspěšnej. Magnuskovi se nechce spát další noc jen ve ždáráku a tak hecuje k okamžitému pochodu pod stěnu ke spacákům. Zdá se nám to správně drsný a tak všichni vyrážíme. Jsme už naprosto vykoksovaní a tak ani nevíme jestli jdeme správně, navíc tmu občas prořízne blesk. Radši vyměknu a vracím se spát k autu, ale klucka vytrvají a krátce po půlnoci jsou u spacáků.

Dobrou noc přeje Špicál.


Pár poznámek na závěr: Moderní časy = 27 dýlek, max. VII+, žádný nejty. Lezli jsme bez mága, doporučuju aby alespoň jeden (Magnusek) z dvojice měl maximum na skalkách výrazně výše než je obtížnost cesty jinak si šíleně zkousnete  (což je ostatně obecně platná rada do hor)


Čenda s Johnym vylezli Messnerovu variantu Vinatzerovy cesty - asi 30 dýlek, max. VI+.

Kdyby nám chtěl někdo kontrolovat průkazy :) tak podotýkám že všichni jsme členové HK Vyšehrad resp. VŠAK Chemie Praha.



Špicál   [úpravy] 18:13 08.07.2002Tisk 

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Nový komentář 

 Boží záběry!!!
To jsou fakt boží záběry.
Zapsal: JirkaS, 11:22:12 09.07.2002
 Paráda!!!
Přál bych si pro nás jen houšť takovýchto článků na Lezci a Vám víc a víc podobných akcí. Už se těším na příště. Jen si říkám, jak se to má při takovéhle akci s aklimatizací? Je třeba? Netřeba?
Zapsal: Gejza, 08:18:21 10.07.2002
 hrd
No Spicale, jsem hrd, ze te znam. Dost pekny fotecky i poctenicko. Az se vratite s Kavkazkych pahorku tak to vsechno splachneme. Dobra prace.
Zapsal: Maty, 10:44:51 10.07.2002
 dobry
Cest Spicale, dobry, fotky jsem uz videl s Honzou v ANTu, jen me zajima to s tim reversem (mam pocit ze jako splhadlo to fakt navrzeny nebylo :)))) ) ale dobry. Cest
Zapsal: HatueY, 14:04:54 10.07.2002
 Reverzo
Me by taky zajimalo, jak je to s tim Reverzem. Neni to sice splhadlo, ale dobiranim by se melo jako splhadlo nechat pouzit - ne prilis pohodlne, ale funkcni. Podobne je to i se STOPakem a kladkou Minitraxion.
Zapsal: Lurtz, 08:47:56 11.07.2002
 ad:Reverzo
Sem to vcera zkousel a chapu....dole na lane clovek musi mit chycenej konec lana, protoze se zveda a nepopotahuje a nahore je to tak utahly, ze posun je fakt drina...
Zapsal: HatueY, 09:46:10 11.07.2002
 dobry
Moc gratuluju dobrej výkon, přijel jsem z Marmolady minuly patek a musim rict ze je to fakt stena:-). Zatím jsem tam jenom pověsil pytel ale zkušenosti urcitě stály za to. Přeji moc podobných úspěchů.
P.S: Chtěli jsem vylézt Dona Quixota za den ale ještě jsme na to neměli rychlost tak snad priste.
Zapsal: TomasL, 23:21:35 16.07.2002
 TomasoviL.
Ahoj, nemohl bys napsat nejaky komentar ke Quixotovi? Mozna se tam v lete chystam a zajimalo by me, jake to je - jisteni, obtiznost, hledani cesty, skoby?? apod. Kdyz jste to nedolezli, tak jste asi slanili, ze - byl ustup v pohode?

Diky,
Lenka K.
Zapsal: Lenka K., 09:30:02 17.07.2002
 
Ten prsák si víc utáhni, pak ti nebude dřít krk. :-) Nebo?
Zapsal: Honza Hrb, 22:56:06 24.07.2002
 Reverzo
Jelikož jsem nevěděl jak ten problém jasně a jednoduše popsat tak jsem to chytře odbyl hláškou že to řeknu pouze zájemcům :-), bohužel se nějací našli. No prostě ty úzký lana (devítky) se v tom širokym chlívečku při zatížení kousnou vedle sebe a při každym pohybu vzhůru je musíš brutální silou vyrvat, doporučuji vyzkoušet dříve než v praxi.
Zapsal: Špicál, 13:35:21 05.08.2002
 Lezecky pruvodce
Poradi, poskytne mi nekdo lezeckeho pruvodce na Marmosku, Cortinu a okoli ? Dik, uz mame sbaleno ;-)
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Zapsal: r i c k y . a l b e r t o . r i c a r d o @ g m a i l . c o m, 08:22:11 18.01.2020
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Zapsal: r i c k y . a l b e r t o . r i c a r d o @ g m a i l . c o m, 02:37:09 20.01.2020
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Zapsal: r i c k y . a l b e r t o . r i c a r d o @ g m a i l . c o m, 18:53:40 29.01.2020
 eridanuspills.com
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Zapsal: r i c k y . a l b e r t o . r i c a r d o @ g m a i l . c o m, 20:27:32 02.02.2020
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Zapsal: r i c k y . a l b e r t o . r i c a r d o @ g m a i l . c o m, 12:29:24 14.02.2020
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Zapsal: IXGYlaoQTBtiIO, 15:35:34 18.11.2020


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