The legendary route Vysoke napeti (The High Tension) for 8b+ (Fr) in Teplicke skaly (Adrspach sandstone area, Czech Republic) had another PP repetition by Czech climber Lubos Mazl.

He climbed it yesterday, entered the info into databaze of climbs here on CzechClimbing.com and graded it as 8b, same as another Czech elite climber Ondra Benes, who climbed the route on 26.8. 2005.

Look at the route item in the route database Vysoké Napětí.







Luboš Mázl climbing Vysoké napětí
photo © by Pavel Žofka (Žofin - rockart.cz)



Vysoké napětí leads via the mid line through the wall
photo © by Standa Holec

The route line was found and first climbed by Tomáš Sedláček from ze Zlín (Moravia, Est part of Czech Republic) in 1994. The film Vysoké napětí about the climb followed and it made the route famous. Tomas Sedlacek climbs the route in the film in excelent style (he graded it for 8b+) in team with Marcel Toman, who adds in the movie the climb of the next route Život na hraně (Life on the edge, 8a) at Hláska tower in Teplice and Tomas climbes free the route Bumerang (7c+) at Chrámové stěny in the end. Film was awarded at the International Festival of Mountaineering films in Teplice nad Metují in 1995.

The route was canceled 1997 and the bolts were hammered out, because some holds should be chipped against the trad local sandstones rules.
In 2005 the Czech climber Pavel Hruby succed in rebolted the route and climb it again these time according to the rules. The route now finishes a bit above the half of the wall.

The original route maker Tomas Sedlacek runs now the  company Restday which resoles the climbing shoes. The Author of the film Vysoké napetí Zdenek Nemec tragicaly died in 1998 in Venezuela on the highest world waterfall Salto Angelo.

The movie Vysoké napětí is on the videocassete Skalní hrátky (Rock Games), together with the other four excelent climbing films by Zdeněk Němec (one of them is about the US legend John Bachar), who filmed them with Tomáš Sedláček and Marcel Toman and which was created in 1997.