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Talung expedition

back in KTM

Expedice Talung se po vice nez mesicnim pusobebni ve vychodnim Nepalu vratila zp[et do KTM. Od vedouciho expedice Martina Otty vam tedy muzu predlozit exkluzivni zpravodajstvi.

Mensi problemy provazely odjezd expedice do oblasti Kanchenjungy, kdy misto letadla probehl autobus a tak od 19.9. do 6.10. probihaly taskarice na ceste do BC.


Stejne problemy postihly letos vsechny expedice do Nepalskeho Himalaje a spolecnym jmenovatelem byl snih a vitr. V oblasti take pusobila Japonska expedice a jejich vystupovy smer zvolen za aklimatizacni. Vasek Patek a Martin Otta naslapli v novem snehu velmi peknou stopu az do 6.500 m.

Alenka Cepelkovic a Petr Kolouch vsak dali primo prednost ostremu pokusu na severnim piliri, ale velke mnozstvi noveho snehu a prekvapive tezkych kombinovanych partii je vratily zpet.

Ve zbyvajicim case se Vasek, Alena a Martin pokusili o prvovystup pravym pilirem steny a to kam se dostali si muzete prohlednout na fotce. V nestabilnich snehovych podminkach a pres silny vitr vyklapali az do 6.600 m, kde byly problemy temer vyreseny, je zastavila mensi vetrna smrst a navic bylo potreba sestoupit, kvuli odchodu z BC. Lezeni bylo sneho ledoveho charakteru s useky az k 70 stupnum.


Palo Jackovic, Petr Kolouch a Tibor Hromadka se pokusili dokoncit Japonsky smer. Palo a Tibor se vzhledem k zacinajicim omrzlinam a zaludecnim problemum rozhodli pro navrat. Petr Kolouch pak v zaverecnem solovystupu posledni den, 24.10. dosahl vrchol a sestoupil zpet do BC.

Ted uz si vsichni leci sve modre palce na nohou {Alca a Martin], davaji stejky a prej nechtej az do konce zivota videt Dhal Bhat.


Resume: Talung Czech and Slovak expedition 2002
leader: Martin Otta
members: A. Cepelkova, V. Patek, T. Hromadka, P. Jackovic, J. Skokan, P. Kolouch
First ascent in W face, vpravo od Slovinske cesty, klasifikace AD+, sklon do 50 stupnu

Z KTM 4.11. Zoban

Zoban   [úpravy] 08:49 06.11.2002Tisk 

Reklama:


Související články:

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Nový komentář 

 Slovensky clanok
Cital som teray aj slovensky prispevok na www.jamesak.sk a tam neboli spominani Jackovic a Skokan, Kolouch ale Duce a Hojger. Islo o dve expedicie? Alebo ako to vlastne je kto vsetko tam bol?
Zapsal: Jano, 12:19:24 08.11.2002
 
islo o dve rozne expedicie
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Tak konecne vidim jak to tam vypada. Pastorek rikal samou chvalu. Tak vitej mezi normalni (teplomilne) lidi. Zdarec Lukas
Pokud nevis kdo tak pastorek napovi...
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Gratuluji k vystupu i stastnemu navratu a doufam, ze na zimnim RHM bude nejaka pekna motivacni prednaska!

Lenka K.
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Aleno, moc Ti gratulujeme, jseš opravdu dobrá. Zatím čau, ještě se ozveme!
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